Altes Land/ Elbe Marshland
Elbdeich, Jork, Steinkirchen, Stade, Wischhafen ferry, Glückstadt by car or bike
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Duration: Scenic drive from Hamburg to Stade: 1.5 hrs Jork, Steinkirchen: 2-3 hrs Stade: 2-3 hrs Ferry ride Wischhafen – Glücksstadt: 30 min. Glücksstadt: 1-2 hrs Distances: Roundtrip: ~ 96 miles (155km) Hamburg – Jork: 27 miles (43km) Jork – Stade: 15 miles (24km) Stade – Ferry terminal Wischhafen: 18 miles (29.5km) Glücksstadt – Hamburg: 36 miles (58km) Getting there Bikers: Take the harbor ferry no. 62 from Steintorhöft or Landungsbrücken to Finkenwerder. From there follow Finkenwerder Norderdeich/Neißdeich to Cranz and further to Jork. From Jork continue over Steinkirchen towards Stade and return with the S-Bahn from Stade to Hamburg. This bike tour is about 28 miles (45 km). |
Alternatively you can take the S-Bahn up to Blankenese and the ferry from the terminal at Strandweg. This ferry crosses the Elbe River towards the town of Cranz on the other riverside. From there continue along Estedeich to Cranz and later to Jork (route description follows in the text). By car: drive highway A7 from Hamburg towards Hannover/Bremen and take exit 31 HH-Moorburg towards Hafen Harburg. Make a left into Georg-Heyken-Straße and a right into Waltershofer Straße. At the next corner make a left into Moorburger Schanze that becomes Hohenwischer Straße and keep right all the time. Follow the road that changes its name to Vierzigstücken later. Stay right to continue on Hasselwerder Straße and make a right into Neuenfelder Fährdeich and another right into Neuenfelder Damm that brings you to the Elbe riverbanks and a road called Neuenfelder Hauptdeich. Make a left and continue your drive along the shore to the Cranz ferry terminal. |
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Elbe riverbanks
As soon you leave the Autobahn (Highway) towards the Elbe riverbanks the scant landscape changes into a scenic and picturesque countryside with orchards and wide and verdant grassland. The bikers can enjoy a beautiful river scenery during the crossing and later the beautiful landscape of Altes Land as soon as they hit Neuenfelder Hauptdeich coming from Finkenwerder or the ferry terminal of Cranz. Tall hills along the riverbanks that open a wide panorama over the Elbe River and Altes Land protect the inland against storm floods. Heading inland you will come across quaint villages with lovely thatched timber frame houses, which are lined by orchards. It’s hard to believe that this fairytale setting is located at the gates of Hamburg. In particular during late spring and early summer colorful sceneries caused by the apple and cherry blossom greet you and shouldn’t be missed. |
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In the past Altes Land was colonized by the Dutch and since then Dutch structures fill the landscape. Many of them are well preserved like the windmills, carved portals, and old timber farmhouses.
Some people might translate Altes Land one to one into “old country” but the name originates from the lower German word Olland. It dates back to the Dutch colonization and the German word for Netherlands “Holland”.
The parts of Altes Land up to Cranz belong to the city’s outskirts. So running into a Hamburg city sign is not a mistake. Hamburg’s city limit goes along Cranz and adjoins the state of Niedersachsen (Lower Saxony).
Some people might translate Altes Land one to one into “old country” but the name originates from the lower German word Olland. It dates back to the Dutch colonization and the German word for Netherlands “Holland”.
The parts of Altes Land up to Cranz belong to the city’s outskirts. So running into a Hamburg city sign is not a mistake. Hamburg’s city limit goes along Cranz and adjoins the state of Niedersachsen (Lower Saxony).
Cranz
When you follow the riverbanks you reach the ferry terminal of Cranz. From here you have a stunning view towards Blankenese, a wealthy quarter of Hamburg on the other side of the river. The quarter is known for the many white colored mansions and houses that are lined along the hillside.
Not far away from this panorama is the small village of Cranz with its 900 residents. Swedes and Danes colonized Cranz from the 14th century before the kingdoms of Hanover and Prussia finally took over in the 19th century. If you follow the street named Estedeich you reach the quarter’s center. From here continue along large apple and cherry orchards to the South and the intersection of Obstmarschenweg to make a right.
When you follow the riverbanks you reach the ferry terminal of Cranz. From here you have a stunning view towards Blankenese, a wealthy quarter of Hamburg on the other side of the river. The quarter is known for the many white colored mansions and houses that are lined along the hillside.
Not far away from this panorama is the small village of Cranz with its 900 residents. Swedes and Danes colonized Cranz from the 14th century before the kingdoms of Hanover and Prussia finally took over in the 19th century. If you follow the street named Estedeich you reach the quarter’s center. From here continue along large apple and cherry orchards to the South and the intersection of Obstmarschenweg to make a right.
Obstmarschenweg, Jork, and Steinkirchen
Obstmarschenweg is the most scenic road through Altes Land and lined with orchards, small bridges, windmills, and lovely thatched timber farms houses. It takes you up to Jork, the beautiful a small town and the heart of Altes Land characterized by many well-preserved Dutch buildings.
On your way to Jork you pass beautiful old timber homes. Take a closer look since most of them have stunning colorful carved portals that date back to the Dutch era as well.
The best way to explore Jork’s Old Town is by waking, so park your car close to the roundabout. Next to the roundabout is small shopping square with small stores located in old timber houses. Walk from the square down Bürgerei (only accessible for pedestrians) that leads you along a canal and towards the town’s church. Make sure you go inside since the church’s interior is jaw dropping! The wooden benches are beautifully carved and painted and embroidered pillows made by local families emblaze the seating areas. More Jork impressions are available at: http://www.jork.de/internet/page.php?site=904000077&typ=2
Continue your drive along Westerjork and Dorfstraße with even more beautiful buildings and orchards along the road towards Mittelkirchen and Steinkirchen. After you entered the town of Mittelkirchen cross the bridge to your left (continue on L140) to get to Steinkirchen’s church.
Park your car at the church on the left and walk down the little path to Hotel Windmüller. The hotel’s garden has a beautiful setting and they serve delicious cakes and pies. This is where you should have a break to splurge yourself and enjoy the picturesque surrounding. If you are looking for a nice overnight stay I highly recommend the Windmüller with its old farmhouse and modern annex. More info is available under: www.hotel-windmueller.de
Follow the country road to the North to pass Grünendeich and get to the city of Stade.
Stade
In former times, around the 14th century Stade was an important joint of the trading route along Elbe River. During that time bulk carriers unloaded their goods at the harbor. This led to the fact that in 17th century the city was embedded in the powerful trade organization Hansa and Stade nowadays carries the name Hansestadt (Hansa city).
The name Stade originates from the lower German word for bank/shore and described a natural landing area for smaller ships on a river mouth. The city arose through smaller villages around 1000 B.C. and developed in to harbor town around 650 A.D.
Stade offers plenty of historic sights and I recommend parking your car next to or within the former city wall along Salztorwall, Wallstraße or Kehdinger Mühren (this area is called Schwingeinsel) for a historic walk. Bikers have to dismount and walk their bikes through old town.
First go to Fischmarkt (fish market) that is located at the historic harbor. At the end of the harbor is the Swedish warehouse that dates to the 17th century and was turned into a museum. Next to it follows the historic mayor Hintzen house and the Goebenhaus that is overgrown by ivy and nowadays a coffee shop. Continue on the street named Wasser West to Bungenstraße and make a left into Rosenstraße. From the bridge you can enjoy the view over the Schwinge, a side arm of lower Elbe River.
At the end of Rosenstraße turn right into Bäkerstraße and follow the street to its end. Cross the street called An der Wassermühle and turn left to walk along the waterside and underneath the bridge to enter the small Erleninsel (island).
Follow the path along the park that runs parallel to Wallstraße and walk over the bridge to the even smaller island where Stade’s open-air museum is located. The museum embeds an old windmill from the 17th century, an impressing carved portal, and a stunning timbered farmhouse. Located within the museum property is a café that has a lovely garden and serves tasty snacks. This is a nice place to have a rest.
At the end of the path you come along another bridge. You have to cross it to get to the next bridge that opens another beautiful view towards the timbered museum structure and guides you back to the main island (Schwingeinsel). The bridge ends at Neubourgstraße where you have turn left to make a right into Gründelstraße. Walking down Gründelstraße make another left into Beguinenstraße and a right into Pferdestraße, which gets you to the large Pferdermarkt (horse square). On the square you have a fountain that bases on the Northern German fairytale “The Fisherman and his wife” by the brothers Grimm. To your left is the Zeughaus, the former Swedish armory. Cross the square and walk over Goos and from there to Große Schmiedestraße to make a left and an immediate right into St. Wilhaldi. Now you approach the massive three-nave gothic church St. Wilhaldi.
You can circle the church starting to the right or short cut to the left to walk down Flutstraße that becomes Sattelmacherstraße and leads to beautiful Hökerstraße.
At the end of Rosenstraße turn right into Bäkerstraße and follow the street to its end. Cross the street called An der Wassermühle and turn left to walk along the waterside and underneath the bridge to enter the small Erleninsel (island).
Follow the path along the park that runs parallel to Wallstraße and walk over the bridge to the even smaller island where Stade’s open-air museum is located. The museum embeds an old windmill from the 17th century, an impressing carved portal, and a stunning timbered farmhouse. Located within the museum property is a café that has a lovely garden and serves tasty snacks. This is a nice place to have a rest.
At the end of the path you come along another bridge. You have to cross it to get to the next bridge that opens another beautiful view towards the timbered museum structure and guides you back to the main island (Schwingeinsel). The bridge ends at Neubourgstraße where you have turn left to make a right into Gründelstraße. Walking down Gründelstraße make another left into Beguinenstraße and a right into Pferdestraße, which gets you to the large Pferdermarkt (horse square). On the square you have a fountain that bases on the Northern German fairytale “The Fisherman and his wife” by the brothers Grimm. To your left is the Zeughaus, the former Swedish armory. Cross the square and walk over Goos and from there to Große Schmiedestraße to make a left and an immediate right into St. Wilhaldi. Now you approach the massive three-nave gothic church St. Wilhaldi.
You can circle the church starting to the right or short cut to the left to walk down Flutstraße that becomes Sattelmacherstraße and leads to beautiful Hökerstraße.
Hökerstraße is Stade’s scenic boulevard since beautiful timber houses and impressive buildings frame the street. At the corner of Sattelmacherstraße you have the city hall and further towards the fish market follows St. Cosmae et Damiani, Stade’s main protestant church. The church is visible from many areas in old town thanks to its huge octagonal spire.
Another sight is the historic Löwen Apotheke (lion pharmacy) with its impressive stairwell. Don’t hesitate to enter the small alleys and backyards of the buildings to discover beautiful carvings and hidden courts. Many buildings along Hökerstraße also carry golden signs like roasters, unicorns, or other characters. In former times those character indicated the businesses and were mounted above the doors. Hökerstraße ends at Fischmarkt, you only have to make a left to return to the harbor and Wasser West.
Another sight is the historic Löwen Apotheke (lion pharmacy) with its impressive stairwell. Don’t hesitate to enter the small alleys and backyards of the buildings to discover beautiful carvings and hidden courts. Many buildings along Hökerstraße also carry golden signs like roasters, unicorns, or other characters. In former times those character indicated the businesses and were mounted above the doors. Hökerstraße ends at Fischmarkt, you only have to make a left to return to the harbor and Wasser West.
Those who biked here should take the S-Bahn from Stade’s central station back to Hamburg. The station is located outside the city wall at the corner of Bahnhof and Hansebrücke. The easiest way to get there is by following the city wall to the right from Fischmarkt or to cut through Old Town. Just follow Hökerstraße back to Postsstraße and further along Am Sande to make a right into Salztorwall and a left into Bahnhofstraße.
Those with a car should continue the tour to the Glückstadt ferry. Follow Hansestraße at the city wall to the North and make a right at the roundabout into Freiburger Straße. At the corner of Buxtehuder Straße and Obstmarschenweg make a left into Obstmarschenweg. Follow the road (L111/B495) through Bützfleth, Barnkrug, Wethe, and Drochtersen towards Wischhafen. In Wischhafen the road is re-named into Stader Straße and at the town limit you have to make a right onto Glückstädter Straße. This road brings you directly to the ferry terminal.
The most updated ferry schedule and prices are listed at: http://www.elbfaehre.de/.
To see the schedule click at “Fahrplan”, the prices for pedestrians and cars are listed under “Tarife”.
The ferry ride takes about 30 Minutes and you cross a scenic part of Elbe River.
Glückstadt
From the ferry terminal follow the access road and make a right into Am Neuendeich. This brings you to a small roundabout where you have to continue onto Am Fleth to get to the city center. Park at the market square to your left and have dinner at one of the historic buildings that face the market. Great recommendations are “Der kleine Heinrich” or “Der Däne” with typical Northern German fare. Very tasteful is Matjes (herring).
More info about the restaurants is available at:
Kleiner Heinrich:
http://www.der-kleine-heinrich.de/speisekarten/Heinrich_English_Menu.pdf
Der Däne: http://www.der-daene.de/index.php?id=24&L=1
A Danish king founded Glückstadt at the beginning of the 17th century to compete with the fast growing and successful harbor town of Hamburg. To attract residents to the future harbor hub the king promised freedom of worship, tax reductions, and free lots to build homes. His offer pulled Jewish, Portuguese, and Dutch people into town but they didn’t stay long.
With the Thirty Years’ War the city abandoned the freedom of worship and most residents left Glückstadt. The harbor town turned more and more into an administrative center and finally lost the harbor monopoly to Hamburg and Altona.
However, the town preserved almost all historic buildings from its prosperity. They are all arranged around or close to the market. Glückstadt is a great example of a pre-designed residence town. The market forms the center with seven streets that radiate from the square. Beautiful buildings worth a visit are the church you can see from the market square, the town hall at Kleiner Schwibbogen, and the Wasmer Palace along Königsstraße. In case you are too tired for more walking, just marvel at the beautiful timber buildings framing the market. Those are now home to several shops and restaurants. When you enter one of them be careful the ceiling height can be very low!
To return to Hamburg follow Am Flet to the South. The road will be renamed into Stadtstraße, Herrendeich, Strohdeich, Langenbrook but will keep the country road (Landstraße) no. B431 all the time. Follow this road to Elmshorn where it becomes Wedenkamp. At the 4-street intersection make a left into Reichenstraße that becomes Hamburger Straße and enter the highway A23 at the end of the road. Highway A23 merges onto highway A7 and you have to drive towards Hannover/Bremen again.
For Hamburg’s city center and the adjoining neighborhoods take exit 26 HH-Stellingen.