Deichstrasse/Speicherstadt/HafenCity/Harbor
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Duration:
Speicherstadt and HafenCity: 1.5 miles (2.5 km) Tunnel below river Elbe: 0.5 miles (0.9 km) roundtrip Walk along the riverbanks from Landungsbrücken: 0.6 miles (1 km) Start: Metro station Rödingsmarkt (U3) |
Distance:
Speicherstadt and HafenCity: 1.5 miles (2.5 km) Tunnel below river Elbe: 0.5 miles (0.9 km) roundtrip Walk along the riverbanks from Landungsbrücken: 0.6 miles (1 km Harbor ferry: 62 from Sandtorhöft at the pier on Am Sandtorkai http://www.hvv.de/pdf/fahrplaene/produktplaene/Hafenfaehren.pdf |
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A day at the harbor can be spent in different ways. If its raining cats and dogs I recommend going to a museum like the “Miniatur Wunderland” at Speicherstadt and to explore the old Elbtunnel at Landungsbrücken later. If you hit a sunny day stroll through Speicherstadt and the new Hafencity before you take the public ferry over the river to explore the docks and enjoy the views of river Elbe and Hamburg’s skyline. To extend this tour walk along the riverbanks or spend the rest of the day at one of the beach clubs to enjoy the sunshine and sunset and to watch the busy harbor life from a sun chair with a cold drink.
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1st stop: Deichstrasse
No matter the weather I recommend to start the day from metro station Rödingsmarkt (U3). Walk down Rödingsmarkt towards the harbor and make a left into Steintwiete. This street ends at Deichstrasse the oldest preserved path in the city that survived the big fire in 1842. Old buildings from the 18th century frame the small cobblestone street and are uniquely uneven. Try to cut through the narrow path in between the houses to access the canal on the backside.
At Deichstrasse number 38, the big fire from May 5th- 8th in 1842 started and destroyed most parts of the city’s old town with about 1,700 homes, the city hall, 3 churches, and the old bank building. The burned buildings were replaced by classicistic structures that outlasted the last century. The most beautiful are the city hall, the Alsterarkaden next to the city hall and the old post building on Poststrasse.
No matter the weather I recommend to start the day from metro station Rödingsmarkt (U3). Walk down Rödingsmarkt towards the harbor and make a left into Steintwiete. This street ends at Deichstrasse the oldest preserved path in the city that survived the big fire in 1842. Old buildings from the 18th century frame the small cobblestone street and are uniquely uneven. Try to cut through the narrow path in between the houses to access the canal on the backside.
At Deichstrasse number 38, the big fire from May 5th- 8th in 1842 started and destroyed most parts of the city’s old town with about 1,700 homes, the city hall, 3 churches, and the old bank building. The burned buildings were replaced by classicistic structures that outlasted the last century. The most beautiful are the city hall, the Alsterarkaden next to the city hall and the old post building on Poststrasse.
2nd stop: Speicherstadt
Following Deichstrasse towards the harbor you already can see the neo-Gothic brick buildings of Speicherstadt. The warehouse complex was built on oak tree piles. In 1883 the construction started and the complex was planned along several fleets. After 6 years the dedication took place and from then on goods like tea, coffee, and herbs were stored inside. By today many museums, restaurants, company headquarters, and carpet dealer took over the old warehouse buildings.
You have a stunning view through the Speicherstadt if you cross the bridge called Kibbelstieg. If you come here at night the facades are illuminated with changing colors giving the area even more historic charme.
Following Deichstrasse towards the harbor you already can see the neo-Gothic brick buildings of Speicherstadt. The warehouse complex was built on oak tree piles. In 1883 the construction started and the complex was planned along several fleets. After 6 years the dedication took place and from then on goods like tea, coffee, and herbs were stored inside. By today many museums, restaurants, company headquarters, and carpet dealer took over the old warehouse buildings.
You have a stunning view through the Speicherstadt if you cross the bridge called Kibbelstieg. If you come here at night the facades are illuminated with changing colors giving the area even more historic charme.
3rd stop: New Harbor City
By taking Kibbelstieg Bridge you get to Harbor City and its Magellanterrassen. At the end of the street is an Info Point where you can go upstairs to have a better view over the quarter. The white building next to you is German Unilever headquarters and the tower next to it full with apartments. The area to the left includes the cruise terminal with more to come in the future. E.g. the University of Hamburg is planning to expand their campus.
Walk along “Am Kaiserkai” with even more new apartment buildings. The inner street contains a small jetty that is framed by old hoisting cranes from the port that now function as decoration. The outer side goes along another harbor basin opening views over the docks. Both sides bring you directly to the new Elbphilharmonic that is still under construction. On your way you pass some tiny coffee shops facing the docks or the small jetty (depending which side you take) nice spots to have a coffee or pastry. At the end of Kaiserkai you reach the restaurant Carl’s. If it is time for lunch and you haven’t had a break before check out their bistro (not the brasserie) for some tasty and affordable small plates.
The concert/opera house (Elbphilharmonie) next to you is under construction since 2007 and the city’s problem child. The costs are exploding and no one knows when the concert house and hotel can open its doors. The structure sits atop the former cacoa storehouse named Kaispeicher A.
By taking Kibbelstieg Bridge you get to Harbor City and its Magellanterrassen. At the end of the street is an Info Point where you can go upstairs to have a better view over the quarter. The white building next to you is German Unilever headquarters and the tower next to it full with apartments. The area to the left includes the cruise terminal with more to come in the future. E.g. the University of Hamburg is planning to expand their campus.
Walk along “Am Kaiserkai” with even more new apartment buildings. The inner street contains a small jetty that is framed by old hoisting cranes from the port that now function as decoration. The outer side goes along another harbor basin opening views over the docks. Both sides bring you directly to the new Elbphilharmonic that is still under construction. On your way you pass some tiny coffee shops facing the docks or the small jetty (depending which side you take) nice spots to have a coffee or pastry. At the end of Kaiserkai you reach the restaurant Carl’s. If it is time for lunch and you haven’t had a break before check out their bistro (not the brasserie) for some tasty and affordable small plates.
The concert/opera house (Elbphilharmonie) next to you is under construction since 2007 and the city’s problem child. The costs are exploding and no one knows when the concert house and hotel can open its doors. The structure sits atop the former cacoa storehouse named Kaispeicher A.
4th stop: Harbor ferry ride
Over the bridge past the Elbphilharmonic you reach Sandtorkai. Make a right and follow the street up to the parking lot to your left. Cross the lot and walk over to the riverbanks. At the end is a ferry station. I highly recommend to take it if you like to do a cruise over river Elbe. Ferry line 62 takes you along the main ferry terminal at Landungsbrücken, the famous Fischmarkt, the Docklands, and further to Övelgönne a museum harbor. From there the ferry crosses the river to Finkenwerder at the other side of the river. Don’t leave the boat but let it take you back to either Fischmarkt or Landungsbrücken.
The fare is far less than the commercial tours and covers all must-sees along the river. The roundtrip takes about 70 minutes and the ferry leaves every 15 minutes from the ferry station Sandtorhöft. More info in English is available at:
http://www.hadag.de/e_hafenfaehren.php
By starting the tour from Hafencity/Sandtorhöft you assure a good spot on the boat since most tourists are waiting at Landungsbrücken fighting for good seats.
During the cruise you can see the beautiful skyline with the Michel, the city’s main Lutheran church. The church possesses the second largest spire and is easy to spot because of its golden clock. The riverbanks facing the city are lined with many old low-rise buildings and some newer structures that were developed in the last 10 years. Large docks dominate the other side. When crossing the river to Finkenwerder look to the right to see Blankenese, a wealthy quarter of Altona that is characterized by a stepped landscape with huge mansions.
5th stop: Fischmarkt
Returning from the other side of the river you can choose to leave the ferry at Fischmarkt or return to Landungsbrücken. From Fischmarkt you can stroll back to Landungsbrücken along the riverbanks. Every Sunday booths along the cobblestone street with fish, fruit, arts and crafts, and other stuff open in the early morning to sell their goods to locals and tourists until 9:30 am. Since 1703 merchants are cultivating this tradition and are pulling thousands of visitors each week.
Returning from the other side of the river you can choose to leave the ferry at Fischmarkt or return to Landungsbrücken. From Fischmarkt you can stroll back to Landungsbrücken along the riverbanks. Every Sunday booths along the cobblestone street with fish, fruit, arts and crafts, and other stuff open in the early morning to sell their goods to locals and tourists until 9:30 am. Since 1703 merchants are cultivating this tradition and are pulling thousands of visitors each week.
6th stop: Old Elb tunel (Alter Elbtunnel)
Follow the street to the right along St. Pauli Fischmarkt that becomes St. Pauli Hafenstrasse. The bulky building behind Strand Pauli Beachclub is the entrance to the old “Elbtunnel”, a tiled tube that connects the city with the other side of river Elbe. The old Elbe tunnel is a great alternative during rain or cold weather. It goes along underneath the river to the other side. From there you have a nice vantage point over the city.
The tunnel was built from 1907 – 1911 for cars and pedestrians and is still the fastest connection between the banks. After the construction of the new “Elbtunnel” at the highway A7 the old one became a popular tourist attraction and the tiled 0.3 miles long tube is mainly as a pedestrian way today. To access the tunnel take the elevator 20 meters (65ft) down below the river surface. The elevator at the other side of the tunnel takes you back to the surface to the vantage point. Arriving there you are now in Steinwerder and have a breathtaking view over the city’s skyline.
Follow the street to the right along St. Pauli Fischmarkt that becomes St. Pauli Hafenstrasse. The bulky building behind Strand Pauli Beachclub is the entrance to the old “Elbtunnel”, a tiled tube that connects the city with the other side of river Elbe. The old Elbe tunnel is a great alternative during rain or cold weather. It goes along underneath the river to the other side. From there you have a nice vantage point over the city.
The tunnel was built from 1907 – 1911 for cars and pedestrians and is still the fastest connection between the banks. After the construction of the new “Elbtunnel” at the highway A7 the old one became a popular tourist attraction and the tiled 0.3 miles long tube is mainly as a pedestrian way today. To access the tunnel take the elevator 20 meters (65ft) down below the river surface. The elevator at the other side of the tunnel takes you back to the surface to the vantage point. Arriving there you are now in Steinwerder and have a breathtaking view over the city’s skyline.
7th stop: Harbor Promenade
Back at the Landungsbrücken you can walk back along the riverbanks towards Hafencity and metro station Baumwall (U3). If you walk to the other side of the bulky structure of Landungsbrücken and cross the grey bridges going downstairs you reach the ferry terminals at the river. Along the jetty you have several snack shacks selling the famous Northern German fish rolls you should at least try once. My favorite is Matjes but some do not like the marinated herring. If you are a fish sticks fan go with the breaded “Backfisch”. Another nice variation is the “Krabbensalat” (shrimp salad).
If you walk to the end of the jetty towards Baumwall you run into Rickmer Rickmers, an old green three-master. You can enter the ship from the jetty. From the jetty walk upstairs to the promenade and towards Cap San Diego, a former cargo ship that nowadays is a maritime museum. The entrance goes off the promenade at “Überseebrücke” if you want to go there.
If it is late spring or summer and the weather is nice you should spend the afternoon at Strandpauli, a beachclub behind the old Elbtunnel instead. Enjoy the view and harbor atmosphere from a beach chair or couch with a cold drink and relax from the sightseeing. You get there by walking back towards Fischmarkt and make a left into the first street behind the jetty.