North Shore/Kohala Tour
Waikoloa Resort with Anaeho’omalu Beach, Mauna Lani, Hapuna Beach, Hawi, Birthplace of King Kamehameha, Pololu Valley, Kohala Mountain Road
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Duration:
about 6-8 hours, depending on your plans Kona – Pololu Valley, no stops: 1.5 hrs Kona – Waikoloa Resort: 40 min Distance: Kona – Pololu Valley: about 60 miles (~ 96km), 1.5 hrs, no stops Kona – Waikoloa Resort: 26 miles (~ 42km), 40 min., no stops Waikoloa Resort – Hawi: 31 miles (~ 50km), 1 hr, no stops Hilo – Waikoloa: 76 miles (~122km), 2 hrs |
What to bring:
sturdy shoes, sunscreen and rash shirt, water and food, camera and underwater camera Coming from Kona: Just follow HWY 11/19 North towards the airport. From Hilo/Puna: The shortest way is to cut through Saddle Road. At the end make a sharp left onto HWY 190 South and cut through Waikoloa Road to the resorts. This is going to be a full day trip for you. |
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1st stop: Waikoloa Resort and Anaeho’omalu Beach The road from Kona to Waikoloa Resort is cut through several desolate lava flows with beautiful secluded beaches like A’opio and Makalawena to the left. Both are located around the airport in case you want to visit them. More info is listed under the “Beaches” section. Atop the lava hills to the left and right locals and tourists decorated the black rocks with white stones. From lover’s oaths, over signs, to bold phrases you have a lot to read during the drive. Behind milemarker 77 you reach Waikoloa Resort to your left with the breathtaking Anaeho’omalu Beach. The resort is dominated by vacation rentals, high-end hotels, two golf courses and shopping centers. Sounds bad first but is actually quite nice. The structures fit into the surroundings and the open-air shopping centers are built like villages giving Waikoloa Resort a small town flair. |
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Passing Queen’s Marketplace, one of the shopping centers, the entrance to Aneaehoomalu Beach with its parking lot follows to your left. The beach is the most beautiful beach on the island – in my opinion – and a great spot to enjoy the day with toddlers/children. The water is very shallow and clear and the scenery with tall palm trees framing the fine white sand is breathtaking. I highly recommend returning one evening for sunset to have a picnic here or just to enjoy the atmosphere.
A path goes off the beach leading you to the Hilton hotel. The shore is full with white and black stones and rocks that sometimes make it hard to walk so you might want to wear sturdy shoes. On the trail you pass fish ponds, lovely lookouts and the Mariott’s backyard and luxurious vacation rentals. I recommend doing the hike since it is scenic and the Hilton so far from presence that you should see it once.
The resort is huge and to get its guests conveniently from one place to the other it has an own tram. To encounter the whole experience you definitely should take the tram to the final destination. Entering the Hilton from the path you hit a beautiful beach promenade I would save for later. First go over the suspension bridge to visit the small zoo with nenes, flamingos and sea turtles before you take the tram.
The tram guides you past artificial canals with boats cruising on them. At the last stop get off the tram and walk to the shore. After crossing some bridges you enter the beach promenade that goes along a lagoon that is popular with sea turtles. Further down you finally approach the Sea Quest where dolphins are playing around if they are not forced to entertain the hotel guests. At the end you come again to the salt and pepper path that leads you back to Aneaehoomalu Beach where you can recover from Hilton’s Disneyland.
If you prefer to walk back along the street take the tram back to the reception, since it is hard to exit the hotel through a side exit – if there is any. I couldn’t find one…
If it is time for lunch or you need a rest you will find several restaurants and small markets in the Kings’ Shops and Queen’s Marketplace. Alternatively you can postpone the break and continue to Mauna Lani where you have a real nice Foodland with outstanding poke (marinated raw ahi tuna salad) and other snacks.
If you come here to golf on Waikoloa’s beautiful Beach or King’s Course drive down the main street to the far end. They re-arranged the courses and the new clubhouse and check-in are at the end of the road.
Fans of petroglyphs and Hawaiian history shouldn’t miss the carvings in between the lava flows. The easiest access goes off in front of the gas station. Follow the path on the right that brings you along a vacation rental community and the golf courses. The way to the petroglyphs is marked.
A path goes off the beach leading you to the Hilton hotel. The shore is full with white and black stones and rocks that sometimes make it hard to walk so you might want to wear sturdy shoes. On the trail you pass fish ponds, lovely lookouts and the Mariott’s backyard and luxurious vacation rentals. I recommend doing the hike since it is scenic and the Hilton so far from presence that you should see it once.
The resort is huge and to get its guests conveniently from one place to the other it has an own tram. To encounter the whole experience you definitely should take the tram to the final destination. Entering the Hilton from the path you hit a beautiful beach promenade I would save for later. First go over the suspension bridge to visit the small zoo with nenes, flamingos and sea turtles before you take the tram.
The tram guides you past artificial canals with boats cruising on them. At the last stop get off the tram and walk to the shore. After crossing some bridges you enter the beach promenade that goes along a lagoon that is popular with sea turtles. Further down you finally approach the Sea Quest where dolphins are playing around if they are not forced to entertain the hotel guests. At the end you come again to the salt and pepper path that leads you back to Aneaehoomalu Beach where you can recover from Hilton’s Disneyland.
If you prefer to walk back along the street take the tram back to the reception, since it is hard to exit the hotel through a side exit – if there is any. I couldn’t find one…
If it is time for lunch or you need a rest you will find several restaurants and small markets in the Kings’ Shops and Queen’s Marketplace. Alternatively you can postpone the break and continue to Mauna Lani where you have a real nice Foodland with outstanding poke (marinated raw ahi tuna salad) and other snacks.
If you come here to golf on Waikoloa’s beautiful Beach or King’s Course drive down the main street to the far end. They re-arranged the courses and the new clubhouse and check-in are at the end of the road.
Fans of petroglyphs and Hawaiian history shouldn’t miss the carvings in between the lava flows. The easiest access goes off in front of the gas station. Follow the path on the right that brings you along a vacation rental community and the golf courses. The way to the petroglyphs is marked.
2nd stop: Mauna Lani
Just a few miles North of Waikoloa Resort lies the entrance of Mauna Lani Resort, another cluster of high-end vacation rentals and hotels. As mentioned before you have a great Foodland branch in the small open air shopping center at the roundabout. If you are hungry I recommend hitting the poke bar and taking out your lunch to the beach.
Most visitors don’t know that Mauna Lani was built on ancient land that was a popular recreational area for kings and elders. Some fishponds, a petroglyphs field, an old fishing village, and caves were preserved during the construction of Mauna Lani.
From the parking lot at Holoholokai Beach Park you can hike to the petroglyphs but should take a lot of water and leave early since it is getting very hot and dusty on your way. Don’t get mislead by the carvings at the beginning of the trail, the petroglyphs field is about 25 minutes by feet away and you have to walk to the forest first.
The fishponds are located next to Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and you can park at the public lot. A walk around the ponds takes about an hour and you even can cool off in them, but I have to mention there is only one with clear water called Secret Pond (smallest pond) that is appealing.
3rd stop: Hapuna Beach
Hapuna Beach is the largest beach on Big Island and consistently voted one of the most beautiful beaches on the islands. It has a ½ mile stretch of sand that is framed by trees and some palms. Depending on the surf conditions the beach is perfect for swimming, body surfing or even snorkeling. Make a short stop to walk along the ocean and to stretch your legs before you continue on a longer drive to Hawi. If you have boogie boards in the car take them with you since the waves at Hapuna Beach are known for great boarding.
4th stop: Hawi and King Kamehameha Statue
North of Hapuna Beach you will pass Kawaihae. Stay left on HWY 270 to circle the shore. BTW - the big mountain you see in the far is Haleakala volcano on Maui.
If you haven’t been to an old Hawaiian village yet you have another chance at Lapakahi State Park at milemarker 14. The park is open from 8am – 4pm and admission free. You can self-tour the village within 30-45 minutes with the help of a brochure. Further north follows the birth site of King Kamehameha but I recommend skipping it. The road down to Upolu airport is boring and the way to the birth site only recommended for 4WD. It is very windy and there is not much to see. The better choice is to continue to Hawi.
Hawi is a sleepy town with unique art galleries, shops and few restaurants. It was once the center of a sugar plantation until the plantation was shut down in the 1970s. Along the main street you will see several historic plantation buildings that date back to the mid 1800’s. I recommend stopping here to have some Tropical Dreams ice cream at Kohala Coffee Mill and to shop some souvenirs in the small boutiques around. At least try the Macadamia Nut ice cream, a flavor to die for – in my opinion. If you get addicted you get your last chance at Kona airport where Tropical Dreams is sold in the newspaper and snack shop.
A bit further down the road follows Kapaau with a small church and the original King Kamehameha statue in front. The story about the statue is quite funny. First it was made for a memorial across Iolani Palace on Oahu but the statue got lost during its ship transport from France to Hawaii when the ship sank around the Falkland Islands. A second look-alike was commissioned to replace the lost statue. When this one was finished, shipped, and erected the captain of the sunken ship found the original statue. He sold it to the artist who restored it before it was finally given to the State of Hawaii. The state then dedicated the statue to the birthplace of King Kamehameha.
If you now think that you have seen another statue in Hilo, you are right. This one was erected in 1997 and is the third statue on the islands. Each year on King Kamehameha Day all three memorials are draped with flower chains called leis to celebrate the great Hawaiian king.
5th stop: Polulu Valley
At the end of HWY 270 you reach Polulu Valley and the breathtaking lookout over the lush and deep carved landscape. Park your car and walk down the trail since the lookout down to Polulu Beach gets even better the further you descend. If you want to hike the whole 1-mile long trail it will take about one hour (roundtrip). You will walk over dirt and roots in a steep descend to a black sand beach. The moderate to strenuous trail, depending on your shape, starts behind the small parking lot and rewards you with breathtaking valley panoramas.
At the bottom you can extend the hike following another trail above the beach. This one goes over the next ridge and opens a view over Honokane Nui Valley. The extension takes another hour but you can expect amazing views. Alternatively you can enjoy the black sand with the black lava rocks or the picnic area at Pololu Valley. Refrain from swimming here since the surf is rough and the area popular with Portuguese Man-o-wars. A sting of these tiny jellyfish can be very painful for days. No matter how far you hike be careful on both trails since they can be muddy and very slippery.
Coming back to the parking lot I recommend driving back towards Anaehoomalu Beach to watch the sunset. For a change in landscape I suggest taking scenic Kohala Mountain Road to Waimea.
Kohala Mountain Road (Route 250)
The road goes off to the left between Kapaau (King Kamehameha statue) and the small shopping area in Hawi. By taking Route 250 you drive along sleeping Kohala volcano, which is the oldest of all volcanoes on the island. On your way you will pass wide-open spaces with views over Kohala coast, and ironwood forests for about 22 miles.
Since not many tourists know about this splendid road you will only share it with locals. Don’t let them rush you just slow down so they can pass.
Route 250 merges into HWY 19 and you have the choice of turning right towards Kawaihae or continue on HWY 190 (Mamalahoa Road) to milemarker 11. There you have to turn right to continue on Waikoloa Road, passing Waikoloa Village to get back to Anaehoomalu Beach at Waikoloa Resort.
In case you just want to drive back to your accommodation and are not staying along Kohala coast either continue on 190 or 19. Both roads are bringing you back to Kona from where you can continue to your final destination. If you stay in Hilo take Saddle Road back since it is shorter.
The road goes off to the left between Kapaau (King Kamehameha statue) and the small shopping area in Hawi. By taking Route 250 you drive along sleeping Kohala volcano, which is the oldest of all volcanoes on the island. On your way you will pass wide-open spaces with views over Kohala coast, and ironwood forests for about 22 miles.
Since not many tourists know about this splendid road you will only share it with locals. Don’t let them rush you just slow down so they can pass.
Route 250 merges into HWY 19 and you have the choice of turning right towards Kawaihae or continue on HWY 190 (Mamalahoa Road) to milemarker 11. There you have to turn right to continue on Waikoloa Road, passing Waikoloa Village to get back to Anaehoomalu Beach at Waikoloa Resort.
In case you just want to drive back to your accommodation and are not staying along Kohala coast either continue on 190 or 19. Both roads are bringing you back to Kona from where you can continue to your final destination. If you stay in Hilo take Saddle Road back since it is shorter.