RUEGEN
|
Rügen is the largest German island and characterized by open bays and lagoons that are spread over 974 km2 (376 square miles). It belongs to the province of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania and is located in the Baltic Sea. Every year it attracts several hundred thousand vacationers due to its seaside resorts, endless beaches, fisher villages, mansions, chalk cliffs, and nature reserves.
|
The broken up island contains several peninsulas and smaller islands and is split into 8 areas. The two largest ones are Northwest Rügen and South Rügen. Long avenues that are part of the German scenic route characterize the latter. Tall trees frame the old seaside resort road on Rügen that runs to the historic town of Putbus, Rügen’s first seaside resort. Besides, the small and protected island of Vilm is located here, next to the lovely fisher village Lauterbach. Northwest Rügen is known for wide meadows, small and sleepy villages and many prestigious farmhouses and mansions.
The island’s center is located around the town of Bergen that is known for its beautiful monastery yard, market and over 800-year-old church.
Off to Rügen’s east side follows the area of Granitz with the famous seaside resorts Binz and Sellin. Beautiful seaside resort architecture and endless beaches characterize both resorts.
Binz on Rügen is framed by the Baltic Sea and Lake Schmachter. It has a long beach promenade that runs along old mansions and a nice lakeshore to explore. Sellin on the other hand features a beautiful pier with a historic bridge house and offers quaint buildings along Wilhelmstraße. Both resorts are located along the historic train route of “Rasender Roland” that runs from Lauterbach in South Rügen to Göhren on the Mönchgut Peninsula.
Just a short hike or drive away from both resorts is the beautiful hunting lodge Granitz, the most visited castle on Rügen. Just a stone throw away at the shore follows Prora, though a reminder of Germany’s dark past during the Third Reich it is kind of another sight on the island. Prora on Rügen is a former Nazi vacation resort and a typical example for the bulky Third Reich architecture. It was part of the regimes Strength of Joy mass tourism program but came never in use. The soviets and later the GDR used parts of the eight Prora buildings as army base. After Germany’s reunification the Bundeswehr took over the location first but today parts serve as a museum and hostel.
Mönchgut Peninsula adjoins the area of Granitz in the South and embeds the seaside resorts Baabe and Göhren with beautiful Rügen beaches. Both resorts are connected with the local historic train as well and are known for several traditional fisher villages that are located in a biosphere reserve.
Northwest of the island’s center goes off Jasmund Peninsula, which contains the world famous chalk cliffs (Kreidefelsen) of Rügen with the highest ledge Königstuhl. At their foothills in the South is the harbor town of Sassnitz the island’s major hub for ferry connections to Sweden, Denmark, Lithuania and Russia.
Jasmund is bordered by Wittow peninsula that is popular for its endless Rügen beaches that run along the bay bar Schaabe, many historic buildings, the picturesque fisher village Vitt, and the famous Cape Arkona. Just a bit off shore follows Rügen’s neighboring island Hiddensee with scenic beaches, hiking and biking trails, and beautiful houses with lovely gardens.
To explore all parts of the island during your Rügen visit you should at least allow a week and come with a car or rent bikes to travel around. Allow half a daz one day for the island of Vilm and a day for Hiddensee. You will need another day to explore the famous seaside resorts in Granitz and Mönchgut area.
You can combine a visit to the Northwest, Wittow and Jasmund Peninsula e.g. by taking Wittower ferry from/to Trent to/from Wiek. A half day each is necessary for Cape Arkona and a hike along the chalk cliffs.
At least allow one day to spend at one of the many Rügen beaches and to explore Bergen and South Rügen.
More info about the island for your Rügen visit is available @: http://www.ruegen.de/en/about-ruegen.html
The island’s center is located around the town of Bergen that is known for its beautiful monastery yard, market and over 800-year-old church.
Off to Rügen’s east side follows the area of Granitz with the famous seaside resorts Binz and Sellin. Beautiful seaside resort architecture and endless beaches characterize both resorts.
Binz on Rügen is framed by the Baltic Sea and Lake Schmachter. It has a long beach promenade that runs along old mansions and a nice lakeshore to explore. Sellin on the other hand features a beautiful pier with a historic bridge house and offers quaint buildings along Wilhelmstraße. Both resorts are located along the historic train route of “Rasender Roland” that runs from Lauterbach in South Rügen to Göhren on the Mönchgut Peninsula.
Just a short hike or drive away from both resorts is the beautiful hunting lodge Granitz, the most visited castle on Rügen. Just a stone throw away at the shore follows Prora, though a reminder of Germany’s dark past during the Third Reich it is kind of another sight on the island. Prora on Rügen is a former Nazi vacation resort and a typical example for the bulky Third Reich architecture. It was part of the regimes Strength of Joy mass tourism program but came never in use. The soviets and later the GDR used parts of the eight Prora buildings as army base. After Germany’s reunification the Bundeswehr took over the location first but today parts serve as a museum and hostel.
Mönchgut Peninsula adjoins the area of Granitz in the South and embeds the seaside resorts Baabe and Göhren with beautiful Rügen beaches. Both resorts are connected with the local historic train as well and are known for several traditional fisher villages that are located in a biosphere reserve.
Northwest of the island’s center goes off Jasmund Peninsula, which contains the world famous chalk cliffs (Kreidefelsen) of Rügen with the highest ledge Königstuhl. At their foothills in the South is the harbor town of Sassnitz the island’s major hub for ferry connections to Sweden, Denmark, Lithuania and Russia.
Jasmund is bordered by Wittow peninsula that is popular for its endless Rügen beaches that run along the bay bar Schaabe, many historic buildings, the picturesque fisher village Vitt, and the famous Cape Arkona. Just a bit off shore follows Rügen’s neighboring island Hiddensee with scenic beaches, hiking and biking trails, and beautiful houses with lovely gardens.
To explore all parts of the island during your Rügen visit you should at least allow a week and come with a car or rent bikes to travel around. Allow half a daz one day for the island of Vilm and a day for Hiddensee. You will need another day to explore the famous seaside resorts in Granitz and Mönchgut area.
You can combine a visit to the Northwest, Wittow and Jasmund Peninsula e.g. by taking Wittower ferry from/to Trent to/from Wiek. A half day each is necessary for Cape Arkona and a hike along the chalk cliffs.
At least allow one day to spend at one of the many Rügen beaches and to explore Bergen and South Rügen.
More info about the island for your Rügen visit is available @: http://www.ruegen.de/en/about-ruegen.html
Sights on Rügen
Historic Train “Rasender Roland”
Since 1895 the steam island train “Rasender Roland” (Raging Roland) is running with 18 miles per hour (30 km/h) over Rügen. It connects the seaside resorts Putbus, Binz, Sellin, Baabe and Göhren on Rügen and became a major tourist attraction. Even if you do not have the time to travel the whole distance do at least a short trip from Baabe to Göhren to walk back along the shore.
In the late 19th century the railway system around larger German metro areas was well developed while the rural areas have been neglected. Just a couple of years later an ensuing law resolved this grievance and areas like Rügen were able to build their own railroads. Though most connections were shut down on the island, the connection Lauterbach – Göhren was too popular with the residents and vacationers. It survived tough economic times during and after World War I, the Nazi regime, the Soviet occupation, and the GDR.
With the downfall of the GDR, Deutsche Bahn took over “Rasender Roland” first but sold it to private investors later, who took care of the railway and train restoration.
Today the train runs between 8am and 9pm every two hours between Putbus and Göhren year round and in addition every hour to/from Binz to Göhren during high season in summer.
More information is available under: http://www.ruegensche-baederbahn.de/ (German only)
Cape Arkona (Kap Arkona)
Cape Arkona is located on the northern tip of Wittow Peninsula and is accessible over the lovely village of Putgarten.
From the parking lot you can either walk to the 148 ft high (45 meters) chalk cliff line with its two lighthouses and the gorgeous fisher village Vitt or take a tram or surrey. However, since Putgarten and the wide meadows on the path to Vitt are incredibly scenic I recommend a hike instead of the touristy transportation.
The hike towards Vitt passes Putgarten’s cobblestone streets with lovely houses and gardens. The village dates back to the 5th century and was founded by the West Slavic tribe of the Rani who also built the castle Jaromars that is also located at the cape. Today the former castle is almost gone. Just a few parts of the hill fort are still visible while cliff erosions destroyed most parts of the castle.
Don’t miss on Rügenhof either on the way to or from the cape where you can by arts, crafts by local artists and produce from farmers.
Outside Putgarten continue the hike along wide meadows that are strewn with wild flowers during summer, towards the chapel and the quaint fisher village of Vitt.
Vitt is a preserved landmark and most of its houses are thatched. Walking down the path you end at a small fish shack where you can buy outstanding kipper.
Just before the village skirts is a small stairwell that brings you to a hiking and biking path that runs parallel to the shore and towards Cape Arkona.
From the far you can already see the sighting tower that was built on the grounds of castle Jaromars. To its left are the cape’s two lighthouses. Karl-Friedrich-Schinkel, a famous Prussian architect and urban planer who also created many structures in Berlin, built the smaller lighthouse. It is the second oldest lighthouse on the German Baltic shore and popular with wedding couples. All three buildings are accessible and you have a nice view over the cape. In front of the lighthouses runs the return trail from Cape Arkona to Putgarten.
If you have some time left drive to the deserted Rügen beach of Nordstrand or to Wiek harbor where you can spend a nice evening away from the crowds in the seaside resorts. Wieks beach promenade goes along the small harbor and the bay and has some restaurants and bars with scenic views towards the island of Hiddensee.
Cape Arkona is located on the northern tip of Wittow Peninsula and is accessible over the lovely village of Putgarten.
From the parking lot you can either walk to the 148 ft high (45 meters) chalk cliff line with its two lighthouses and the gorgeous fisher village Vitt or take a tram or surrey. However, since Putgarten and the wide meadows on the path to Vitt are incredibly scenic I recommend a hike instead of the touristy transportation.
The hike towards Vitt passes Putgarten’s cobblestone streets with lovely houses and gardens. The village dates back to the 5th century and was founded by the West Slavic tribe of the Rani who also built the castle Jaromars that is also located at the cape. Today the former castle is almost gone. Just a few parts of the hill fort are still visible while cliff erosions destroyed most parts of the castle.
Don’t miss on Rügenhof either on the way to or from the cape where you can by arts, crafts by local artists and produce from farmers.
Outside Putgarten continue the hike along wide meadows that are strewn with wild flowers during summer, towards the chapel and the quaint fisher village of Vitt.
Vitt is a preserved landmark and most of its houses are thatched. Walking down the path you end at a small fish shack where you can buy outstanding kipper.
Just before the village skirts is a small stairwell that brings you to a hiking and biking path that runs parallel to the shore and towards Cape Arkona.
From the far you can already see the sighting tower that was built on the grounds of castle Jaromars. To its left are the cape’s two lighthouses. Karl-Friedrich-Schinkel, a famous Prussian architect and urban planer who also created many structures in Berlin, built the smaller lighthouse. It is the second oldest lighthouse on the German Baltic shore and popular with wedding couples. All three buildings are accessible and you have a nice view over the cape. In front of the lighthouses runs the return trail from Cape Arkona to Putgarten.
If you have some time left drive to the deserted Rügen beach of Nordstrand or to Wiek harbor where you can spend a nice evening away from the crowds in the seaside resorts. Wieks beach promenade goes along the small harbor and the bay and has some restaurants and bars with scenic views towards the island of Hiddensee.
Chalk Cliffs (Kreidefelsen) and Königstuhl
The chalk cliffs on Rügen with the famous ledge Königsstuhl are a must-do on the island. I recommend doing an extensive hike atop the cliff line along “Hochuferweg” since it is getting more and more dangerous to explore the cliffs from the beach.
The path runs over 6.8 miles (11 km) from Sassnitz to Lohme on Jasmund Peninsula and opens a jaw dropping view over the cliffs and the Baltic Sea.
Park your car or bike close to Sassnitz or Budderhagen to enter the path through the beech grove. These lots are less packed than the ones further north.
At the shore head north towards the plateau’s highest point “Königsstuhl” with over 380 ft (118 meters). From there walk back to the parking lot.
For a better trail overview check the following page of the National Park Jasmund: http://www.nationalpark-jasmund.de/index.php?article_id=92
If the this hike is too long for you, there is also a parking lot close to Königsstuhl with a shuttle provided by the national park, which takes you to the ledge as close as possible.
By the way, take warning signs along the way seriously since there were many accidents in the past due to unexpected erosions.
The chalk cliffs on Rügen with the famous ledge Königsstuhl are a must-do on the island. I recommend doing an extensive hike atop the cliff line along “Hochuferweg” since it is getting more and more dangerous to explore the cliffs from the beach.
The path runs over 6.8 miles (11 km) from Sassnitz to Lohme on Jasmund Peninsula and opens a jaw dropping view over the cliffs and the Baltic Sea.
Park your car or bike close to Sassnitz or Budderhagen to enter the path through the beech grove. These lots are less packed than the ones further north.
At the shore head north towards the plateau’s highest point “Königsstuhl” with over 380 ft (118 meters). From there walk back to the parking lot.
For a better trail overview check the following page of the National Park Jasmund: http://www.nationalpark-jasmund.de/index.php?article_id=92
If the this hike is too long for you, there is also a parking lot close to Königsstuhl with a shuttle provided by the national park, which takes you to the ledge as close as possible.
By the way, take warning signs along the way seriously since there were many accidents in the past due to unexpected erosions.
Seaside resorts Binz and Sellin
Although the seaside resorts of Binz and Sellin on Rügen are the most packed areas on the island you should plan a visit. Both resorts are characterized by beautiful seaside architecture and long promenades along Baltic Sea.
In the 19th century the former fisher and farmers village Binz was a popular bathing spot for guests of the Prince of Putbus. It slowly turned into a Baltic resort when more and more visitors started following the trend of bathing in the Baltic Sea at the end of the century. With its continued growth in popularity the village started building a pier, a beach promenade and spa hotel, which you still can enjoy today. Instead of erecting hotels, Binz decided to come up with private guesthouses. Those were built in the filigree resort architecture, a typical style used in spas around the turn of the century. Since most houses were white colored, they earned the spa the nickname “white pearls”.
All guesthouses belonged to private owners, whose descendants lost their ownership through condemnation procedures by the GDR after World War II. Instead to continue using the beautiful mansions as accommodations, the GDR erected pre-fabricated high-rise buildings in Binz that by today still are pains in the eye. During that time the state allowed the mansions to decay.
After the German reunification the former landlords and families promptly recovered their properties in Binz and the guesthouses were renovated and turned into small bed and breakfasts, hotels, vacation rentals and apartment complexes.
When visiting Binz don’t hesitate to walk along the beach promenade with the quaint buildings. Moreover enter the second longest pier on the island of Rügen to have a nice view over the setting and have a break at the picturesque “Kurhaus” (bath house).
To get away from the tourist masses fight your way through Hauptstraße, the main shopping area in Binz. At the end cross the street and walk over to the scenic area of “Schmachter See”, a lake most tourists miss due to lacking information about the area.
Lake Schmachter is part of a nature reserve and developed during ice age. In particular sunsets are beautiful from here. Moreover you can go for a run, hike or bike tour along the shore. As mentioned there are less people around here, which makes the area a great spot to recover from Binz’s hustle and bustle.
Sellin developed next to Binz into one of the most beautiful seaside resorts on the island. Similar to Binz it was a small village and belonged to the princedom of Putbus before it became a community of Rügen.
The most beautiful area in Sellin is Wilhelmstraße with many resort architecture houses lining up the steep street at the cliff. From its tip you can take the stairwell “Himmelsleiter” or the lift down to the pier with its lovely bridge house.
On the other side of Wilhelmstraße and over the small path of “Seeparkpassage” you get to Sellin’s lake and yacht harbor. The modern vacation resort along the path has many shops, restaurants, leisure attractions like mini golf and playgrounds for kids.
Similar to Binz you also have retreats off the tourist trails in the area, like the forest of Granitz. A popular 8-mile/ 11km (roundtrip) hike or bike tour goes to the beautiful hunting lodge castle of Granitz in the forest.
Just follow Kirchstraße in Sellin towards the health and wellness clinic and continue along the wide path into the forest. Follow the signs to “Schwarzer See” and “Jagdschloss Granitz”. On your way to the castle you come across “Finnischer Krieger”, a grave from the time of Napoleon. From here it isn’t far to your destination.
If you like to bike or hike from Sellin to Binz or the other way round, follow “Hochufer” at the beach to the northwest from Sellin’s pier. The 5 miles (8.5km) long path runs parallel to the shore and along a beautiful forest to the seaside resort.
As mentioned before the island train “Rasender Roland” also connects both seaside resorts if you prefer a more relaxing way to travel.
Island of Vilm
The island of Vilm with its 1 km2 (0.4 square miles) is a biosphere reserve and bird sanctuary off Rügen’s shore in the South and preserved since the 1930’s. Many of you might know the famous paintings of Casper David Friedrich “Landschaft mit Regenbogen” or “Eichen am Meer” by Carl Gustav Carus that were painted on Vilm.
10,000 years ago Vilm developed out of a moraine and contains many beeches that are up to 250-300 years old as well as over 300 different fern and flower species. Moreover, many small mammals and birds are living on the island. Sometimes even wild boars cross over from the other side of the shore.
The precious island was used as a resort from the late 19th century and suffered under the large amount of tourists. Due to the island’s wide destruction Vilm became a subject to nature protection in the 1930s to preserve the ancient oaks, beech woods, birds, and small mammals. With the GDR the island was turned into an exclusive vacation resort for the council of ministers with 11 vacation homes. In 1990 the island was closed to the public again and became the home of the international nature protection academy. The former vacation homes were turned into research stations by the academy.
Today 30 visitors per day are allowed on the island but have to attend a guided tour that leaves from Lauterbach on Rügen. I highly recommend making reservations for the tour far in advance due to the limited space under: http://www.vilmexkursion.de/ or +49 (038301) 61896.
Moreover bring a lot of bug repellent since the mosquitoes on Vilm are huge and it seems that they live of the 30 tourists per day. As soon as you step on the island and pass the eco research stations they start attacking you!
Back on the island of Rügen do not miss to visit the circus of Putbus with is beautiful buildings, the palace garden and the famous “Badehaus” at Fürst-Malte-Allee in Goor. The bathhouse was built in 1818 for the Prince of Putbus and his guests from the high nobility and is accessible over an impressive avenue.
By today it was turned into a hotel and became a nice spot for a rest before you continue your island tour or where you can finish off the day.
The island of Vilm with its 1 km2 (0.4 square miles) is a biosphere reserve and bird sanctuary off Rügen’s shore in the South and preserved since the 1930’s. Many of you might know the famous paintings of Casper David Friedrich “Landschaft mit Regenbogen” or “Eichen am Meer” by Carl Gustav Carus that were painted on Vilm.
10,000 years ago Vilm developed out of a moraine and contains many beeches that are up to 250-300 years old as well as over 300 different fern and flower species. Moreover, many small mammals and birds are living on the island. Sometimes even wild boars cross over from the other side of the shore.
The precious island was used as a resort from the late 19th century and suffered under the large amount of tourists. Due to the island’s wide destruction Vilm became a subject to nature protection in the 1930s to preserve the ancient oaks, beech woods, birds, and small mammals. With the GDR the island was turned into an exclusive vacation resort for the council of ministers with 11 vacation homes. In 1990 the island was closed to the public again and became the home of the international nature protection academy. The former vacation homes were turned into research stations by the academy.
Today 30 visitors per day are allowed on the island but have to attend a guided tour that leaves from Lauterbach on Rügen. I highly recommend making reservations for the tour far in advance due to the limited space under: http://www.vilmexkursion.de/ or +49 (038301) 61896.
Moreover bring a lot of bug repellent since the mosquitoes on Vilm are huge and it seems that they live of the 30 tourists per day. As soon as you step on the island and pass the eco research stations they start attacking you!
Back on the island of Rügen do not miss to visit the circus of Putbus with is beautiful buildings, the palace garden and the famous “Badehaus” at Fürst-Malte-Allee in Goor. The bathhouse was built in 1818 for the Prince of Putbus and his guests from the high nobility and is accessible over an impressive avenue.
By today it was turned into a hotel and became a nice spot for a rest before you continue your island tour or where you can finish off the day.
Putbus
Putbus is the oldest seaside resort on the island and is located in South Rügen. It was the residence of the Prince of Putbus in the 19th century. During the princedom different white structures in a neo-classical style - that give you the feeling of traveling in Italy - were built here.
Though the former castle has been taken down by the GDR the orangery and royal stud are well preserved and located around the palace garden. Within the park you have the palace church and the mausoleum. On the park’s opposite is the old residence theatre that still features 200 events per year, like “Putbus Festspiele”, a classical music festival that runs several days around Whitsunday.
Putbus’ center is formed by the circus, a circular roundabout that is framed by beautiful white neo-classical buildings. Most structures were used as residential buildings and the largest as a pedagogium including a gymnasium and boarding school.
The gorgeous bathhouse is located off Putbus’ center in Goor, a village off the town’s harbor area in Lauterbach. By following the beautiful avenue “Fürst-Malte-Allee” from the harbor you get to the famous “Badehaus”, which was turned into a hotel.
Hiddensee
Not far away from Wittow Peninsula is the island of Hiddensee. Similar to other islands around Rügen it developed during an ice age 10,000 to 12,000 years ago. The island was and still is popular with artists, like poets, writers and painters and carries the nickname of an artist island. Moreover the car-free island is known for a beautiful dune and moorland landscape and buckthorn. Products made off the plant’s fruits are sold all over the island.
Hiddensee is accessible via ferry or water taxi from Schaprode and Wiek on Rügen and Stralsund and Zingst on Germany’s mainland. Just 100 years ago the crossing to the small island was more complicated. First of all passengers had to be disembarked from a larger boat in the lagoon and were picked up by a ferryman who brought them with his rowboat to “Fährinsel” a small island in front of Hiddensee. From there the men had to walk over the tidelands while the ferryman carried the women most times.
More info about the ferry schedules and the water taxi is available under: http://www.reederei-hiddensee.de/ (German only).
The villages Vitte, Kloster, Neuendorf and Grieben are all very quaint and popular with visitors. Due to the fact that Hiddensee is car-free you should bring a bike or rent one onsite, otherwise you are relying on horse carriages, Hiddensee’s public transportation.
With 600 residents, Vitte is the largest village on Hiddensee and home of the only school, the town hall and contains one of the harbors. Fisher houses and thatched homes with lovely gardens characterize Vitte.
All houses in Vitte have little signs at the walls with runes on it counting the males in each household. These signs are passed from generation to generation in the local families.
Worth visiting in Vitte is the Karussell (carousel) a circular home that was built by Max Taunt and was later the home of the silent movie actress Asta Nielsen.
Another sight is the house “Blaue Scheune” (blue barn) that became famous in the 1920s due to regular art exhibitions. Since 1954 a German artist is the owner and revitalized the house as gallery and artist studio.
The village of Kloster is located north of Vitte, close to a hilly landscape. Besides the small harbor Kloster is known for a monastery from the 15th century. Moreover, the Nobelist Gerhard Hauptmann had his house here, which was turned into a museum.
North of Kloster follows Grieben, the oldest village on the island with houses from the 18th century and boulder walls from the Slavic era from the 8th to 13th century.
Neuendorf south of Vitte is a preserved landmark that kept its fisher village atmosphere over the centuries. It is defined by white thatched homes that give the village a nostalgic touch.