West Shore Tour
Lahaina, Whalers Village, Black Rock/Kaanapali Beach, Kapalua Beach and promenade, Dragon’s Teeth, Honolua Bay, Nakalele Blowhole, Kahakuloa Head, Wailuku and Iao Valley
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Duration:
depending on your plans, about 6-12 hours; consider spending a separate day at one of the beaches as well Lahaina to Wailuku, no stops: 1.5-2 hours Lahaina: 2 hours Whalers Village: 1-2 hours Black Rock Beach: 1-2 hours Kapalua Beach and promenade: 2 hours Dragon’s Teeth: 30 min. Honolua Bay: 1-2 hours Nakalele Blowhole: 30 min. Iao Valley: 1-2 hours Distance: Kahului – Lahaina: about 23 miles (37km), 40 minutes Lahaina - Kapalua: about 10 miles (16 km), 20 minutes Kapalua – Wailuku: about 31 miles (50km), 1.5 hours very winding! Please note: the street narrows in the north to a one-lane road for both directions! A drive in clockwise direction is highly recommended! What to bring: Sunscreen and a rash shirt with sun protection, snorkel equipment, reef shoes and beach items, camera and underwater camera |
Directions to Lahaina coming from Kahului/Paia: Take State HWY 36 (Road to Hana) towards Kahului and change onto HWY 380 that is getting you to Maalaea. At the end of the HWY turn left onto HWY 30 and follow the coastal route to Lahaina.
In Lahaina make a left into Prison Street. From there you can turn right into Wainee Street to park in the free lots on the curb or pay for attended lots. You also can follow Prison Street and turn right into Front Street and park along the shopping area (paid parking). Coming from Wailea: follow HWY 31 North to Kihei and make a left into N Kihei Road to continue to HWY 30. Reaching HWY 30 keep left and follow the coastal route to Lahaina. In Lahaina make a left into Prison Street. From there you can turn right into Wainee Street to park at the free lots on the curb or pay at the attended lots. You also can follow Prison Street and turn right into Front Street and park along the shopping area (paid parking). From Kapalua: take HWY 30 South to Lahaina and make a right into Front Street at Lahaina’s city limits. Follow Front Street to the center where you find parking at Front Street or one block north along Wainee Street. Start looking for parking at Bubba Gump (to your right). |
1st stop: Lahaina
In former times Lahaina was the royal seat of the Hawaiian kings before one king moved it to Hana. With King Kamehameha the Great the seat and the honor returned to Lahaina at the beginning of the 19th century. It didn’t take long and with King Kamehameha III Lahaina lost the privilege again when he finally ceded the seat to Honolulu in the mid-century.
When the first Boston missionaries discovered Lahaina they built the islands first protestant church in the town. Well preserved over the decades you can visit Wainee Church on Hale Street between Wainee and Luakini Street.
At around the same time the whaling era started here and the whalers’ lifestyles caused conflicts with the missionaries. As a result a wall was erected at the harbor to separate both parties. Vestiges are still visible at the corner of Wharf and Canal Street.
With the new inhabitants more and more buildings were constructed in Lahaina und most of them are still in good condition. Among the first historic buildings are the Baldwin’s House, the pastor’s home at Waine’e Church and the Maria Lanakila at Wainee Street, the first Catholic Church on Maui. During night Maria Lanakila is illmuninated.
Along Front Street and its side alleys you will see several historic buildings and the famous Banyan Tree. The tree that was planted in the 19th century spans over a square and belongs eversince to Lahaina’s cityscape. Most days craftsmen and artists are selling their works at the square in the tree’s shades.
The city has developed a historic walk passing all 31 sights. If you like to visit them or make a selection you will find more details on the page of Best Lahaina Activities: http://www.bestlahaina.com/history.php
Starting at the center at Dickenson Street you come along the Banyan Tree, the harbor and stroll down to “Shops at 505”, a small outdoor shopping center. There you turn around and walk back over the old prison (in case the gate is open go inside to the backyard) and Wainee Street. The walk continues to the north to Mala Wharf, where the largest Buddha statue in the US is located.
For the walk you should allow 1-2 hours and I recommend driving the second part to the wharf by car.
If you like to combine your Lahaina visit with a shopping spree plan two more hours for the stay. Several surf and souvenir shops, galleries and boutiques are lining Front Street that are worth a visit and will eat up your time.
Be cautious with all the tourist informations that are located on Front Street offering trips and activities for bargain prices. These info shops do not inform you about Lahaina and its vicinity but about the plenty time shares along the shore. The special discounts are only given to you if you attend one of the several hours long presentations where they even force you to make additional commitments!
If it’s already time for lunch you will find a nice variety of recommendations at the restaurant section. My favorites for lunch and dinner are Cheeseburger in Paradise and Kimo’s along Front Street. From both restaurants you will have marvelous views over the bay and towards Lana’i.
In case you visit Lahaina separately from the West Coast Tour and don’t have any time restrictions I recommend walking the beach north of Front Street. Endless coconut trees are lining the white sand stretch, turning this stroll into a romantic experience. The only thing you should be aware of is to stay close to the water to avoid being hit by coconuts that are falling down occasionally.
If you are wondering about the capsizing boat in the bay ask the locals for the reason. You will hear several insane stories. The truth is that a break knocked it over running it aground. But the adventurous seafarer stories are much better…
And finally a last tip for Lahaina: In case you are walking around the harbor or the Banyan Tree before noon go to the harbor’s far left. Each day at the end of the wharf fishermen are gutting fish. Not spectatcular at all, but in the water some huge stingrays are waiting for the guts. If you haven’t seen them outside an aquarium this is your chance to see them in nature.
2nd stop: Whalers Village and Black Rock/ Kaanapali Beach
Only 3 miles north of Lahaina you enter Kaanapali. The coastline is dominated by highrising hotel ghettos but also has some nice areas you should visit.
For example the miles long white sandy beach and the best snorkelspot on the island – in my opinion. Besides there is a nice open-air shopping mall close by at Kaanapali HWY.
The Whalers Village offers shopping victims over 50 shops and to the foodies amongst you several restaurants and a food court.
In particular during the late afternoon and at night this area is very nice. From the promenade you have a first class view during sunset, some of the restaurants feature Hawaiian live music and the mall presents a free hula show almost every night. More info at: http://www.whalersvillage.com/
If you head to the beach refrain from parking at the shopping mall structure. If someone sees you leaving with all your beach equipment you will get a ticket immediately! Instead follow the road up to the small parking structure to your left. There you will find 12 free spots for beach visitors. This might sound little in the first place but you will experience a continual coming and going. It just needs some patience until one lot becomes available.
Next to the structure is a path leading you to the beach. Stay to the right at the end to walk along the beach towards Black Rock. I recommend to come here in the morning because then you will see the most fishes and sea turtles while all hotel guests are still busy sleeping or having breakfast.
Black Rock was shaped by a lava flow and divides a long stretch of beach named Kaanapali and Kahekili Beach. Refering to the Hawaiian religion the rock was the location where the souls of the death were jumping off to reunite with their ancestors. Those who haven’t had ancestors waiting for them became one with the rock. A reason why Hawaiians recommend not taking any stones from this rock and other areas on the islands since the anxious souls will try to return to their origin.
Today Black Rock is known as playground for sea turtles and I cross fingers that you will see many of them. The minimum is usually 1-2 turtles that are sharing the area with hundreds of fish. It seems that they don’t care being watched by funny looking bipeds with goggles. If they like they even swim through your legs or approach you, which sometimes can cause a weird feeling in one’s stomach.
During snorkeling pay attention to the current and the surf, since it can push you easily into the sharp rocks. Second, there are rock jumpers that are landing inbetween the snorklers. So stay attentive.
If you want to shower off the salt afterwards you will find a shower behind the hedge. Although the shower belongs to the Sheraton there are too many guests around so that the employees cannot keep track. The management even encourages them not to approach people who appear to be external.
Only 3 miles north of Lahaina you enter Kaanapali. The coastline is dominated by highrising hotel ghettos but also has some nice areas you should visit.
For example the miles long white sandy beach and the best snorkelspot on the island – in my opinion. Besides there is a nice open-air shopping mall close by at Kaanapali HWY.
The Whalers Village offers shopping victims over 50 shops and to the foodies amongst you several restaurants and a food court.
In particular during the late afternoon and at night this area is very nice. From the promenade you have a first class view during sunset, some of the restaurants feature Hawaiian live music and the mall presents a free hula show almost every night. More info at: http://www.whalersvillage.com/
If you head to the beach refrain from parking at the shopping mall structure. If someone sees you leaving with all your beach equipment you will get a ticket immediately! Instead follow the road up to the small parking structure to your left. There you will find 12 free spots for beach visitors. This might sound little in the first place but you will experience a continual coming and going. It just needs some patience until one lot becomes available.
Next to the structure is a path leading you to the beach. Stay to the right at the end to walk along the beach towards Black Rock. I recommend to come here in the morning because then you will see the most fishes and sea turtles while all hotel guests are still busy sleeping or having breakfast.
Black Rock was shaped by a lava flow and divides a long stretch of beach named Kaanapali and Kahekili Beach. Refering to the Hawaiian religion the rock was the location where the souls of the death were jumping off to reunite with their ancestors. Those who haven’t had ancestors waiting for them became one with the rock. A reason why Hawaiians recommend not taking any stones from this rock and other areas on the islands since the anxious souls will try to return to their origin.
Today Black Rock is known as playground for sea turtles and I cross fingers that you will see many of them. The minimum is usually 1-2 turtles that are sharing the area with hundreds of fish. It seems that they don’t care being watched by funny looking bipeds with goggles. If they like they even swim through your legs or approach you, which sometimes can cause a weird feeling in one’s stomach.
During snorkeling pay attention to the current and the surf, since it can push you easily into the sharp rocks. Second, there are rock jumpers that are landing inbetween the snorklers. So stay attentive.
If you want to shower off the salt afterwards you will find a shower behind the hedge. Although the shower belongs to the Sheraton there are too many guests around so that the employees cannot keep track. The management even encourages them not to approach people who appear to be external.
3rd stop: Kapalua Beach, Kapalua and Dragon’s Teeth
Further towards the North you can either take HWY 30 or make a left into Kai Malina Parkway. This one goes off 1.8 miles behind Kaanapali HWY at HWY 30. Choosing the parkway you will drive along the coastline towards Kapalua and pass Napili on your way. Just follow the parkway and go further when it turns into Lower Honoapiilani Road.
Behind the Sea House restaurant you approach the parking lot of Kapalua Beach. This small bay belongs to the most beautiful beaches in the US and you should take your snorkel equipment besides your beach towel with you! As soon as you are in the water you will realize that you entered an aquarium. The reef in front the beach is full with colorful fish. This bay is made for snorkelers and sunbathers but less for swimmers.
From the beach you have a marvelous view over the bay towards Molokai. And if you are lucky you can watch whales passing the bay. This likely happens in winter and spring.
The path behind the beach leads along the Ritz-Carlton villas to Onolea Beach. I highly recommend combining this coastal walk with your Kapalua Beach visit. The path is 3.7 miles (6km) long (roundtrip) and next to different beach villas you will see a bird sanctuary and have a beautiful panorama over Namalu Bay.
At the end of the wooden promenade you can extend the walk to the Dragon’s Teeth that are located behind the golf fairway in front of you. For getting there just follow the path to your right up to Kapalua Place and make a left into Lower Honoapiilani Road. At the corner of Office Road stay left and follow the paved trail down to the green and further towards the ocean. Make sure to not interrupt the golfers and do not cross the fairway!
If this is too far to walk get your car and drive down Lower Honoapiilani Road and park in the small lot at the corner of Office Road.
To the right off the fairway you can see an accumulation of stones, an old Hawaiian cemetery. It was discovered 1990 during the construction of the Ritz-Carlton and prevented that the hotel complex was built directly at the shore. Thankfully to the cemetery visitors have nowadays an unrestricted view over the shore towards Dragon’s Teeth and Honokahua Bay.
The Dragon’s Teeth were formed through a lava flow that divides Honokahua Bay. When the salty high surf hit the hot flow the lava cooled down and received its eye-catching form. The shape of a huge denture gave them the nickname Dragon’s Teeth.
Further up Office Road you will see a red barn, the Honolua Store. Don’t pass it but spend some minutes to go inside. The store is so authentic and charming that you have to explore it. Besides international delicatessen you can buy non-standard Hawaiian and Kapalua souvenirs and enjoy one of the tasty sandwiches!
4th stop: Honolua Bay
Leaving Kapalua you first get to Honolua Bay before you slowly approach the steep mountain route. If you are not in the mood to snokel again just stop at the platform and enjoy the view over the bay.
During summer you will see some yachts and many snorkelers in the bay. During winter this setting changes and you can forget snorkeling anyways, because then large waves are buiding up here and attract surfers. In winter you can watch them competing in several surf contests.
The bay is a nature reserve and the area is managed and protected by locals. Unfortunately, they are deciding on the opening hours depending on their mood, most times it’s 30 minutes earlier than announced. This is why it’s recommended to double-check the hours with them before you enter the water. Another idea is to have one person staying at the shore to give you signs as soon as they start closing the area. An alternative would be to come here by boat. This enables you to decide how long you are snorkeling.
Driving around the bay you will have an amazing panaorama over the coastline and the adjacent lush hills. To the left you have some lay bys where you can stop without interrupting other traffic and to take pictures. On your way you will pass a section of “Red Dirt” that no matter how hard you try, is diffcult to get rid off on tires, clothes, etc. Nevertheless the contrast to the green mountains and the blue sky is wonderful.
Leaving Kapalua you first get to Honolua Bay before you slowly approach the steep mountain route. If you are not in the mood to snokel again just stop at the platform and enjoy the view over the bay.
During summer you will see some yachts and many snorkelers in the bay. During winter this setting changes and you can forget snorkeling anyways, because then large waves are buiding up here and attract surfers. In winter you can watch them competing in several surf contests.
The bay is a nature reserve and the area is managed and protected by locals. Unfortunately, they are deciding on the opening hours depending on their mood, most times it’s 30 minutes earlier than announced. This is why it’s recommended to double-check the hours with them before you enter the water. Another idea is to have one person staying at the shore to give you signs as soon as they start closing the area. An alternative would be to come here by boat. This enables you to decide how long you are snorkeling.
Driving around the bay you will have an amazing panaorama over the coastline and the adjacent lush hills. To the left you have some lay bys where you can stop without interrupting other traffic and to take pictures. On your way you will pass a section of “Red Dirt” that no matter how hard you try, is diffcult to get rid off on tires, clothes, etc. Nevertheless the contrast to the green mountains and the blue sky is wonderful.
5th stop: Nakalele Blowhole
Shortly behind the mile marker 38 you approach Nakalele Blowhole, an undercut of the shoreline where water is pressed through an opening building a fountain. There are two lots at the left where you can park and hike to the blowhole. I recommend choosing the rear lot since the hike is shorter and if you do not want to hike down to the hole you have a nice view from the top as well. I only hope that you see a spit since it sometimes happens that the hole is not blowing at all (as you can see in the pic). During our last Hawaiian vacations we didn’t see any blowholes spitting. Kind of disappointing since we were traveling with family and friends who were eager to watch a several foot high fountain. But I am sure you have more luck if you go there during high tide.
Standing at the blowhole you have a scenic view over the coastline towards Kahakuloa Head. The head is a green triangular rock that rises majestatically over the Northwest.
Behind the blowhole the street is getting narrow and every few yards you have a great lookout over the shore. Prepare yourself for a one-lane road for both directions and start honking before each corner to alert the oncoming traffic.
6th stop: Kahalukoa Head
Around milemarker 41 you approach another parking lot where a small trail goes off. If you follow the trail to the cliffs you will have a stunning view over Kahaluakoad Head and find yourself in a landscape similar to Ireland.
Further North HWY 30 turns into HWY 340 and you are getting closer to the one-lane road. As soon you think it’s over and you left the narrow area behind because you entered the village of Kahakuloa it’s getting worse. Just a few more miles before it is getting better at the height of Kahakuloa Head.
Take a short break in Kahakuloa and try one of the most delicious banana breads at Julia’s in Kahakuloa before you continue driving.
If you want to hike the Kahakuloa Head you have to park next to the small trail that is going off the HWY behind the 14th milemarker and where the street widens again. At this point you also start descending to the valley and get to the corner of HWY 340 and 330. Turning right onto HWY 330 this gets you to Wailuku and you can continue towards Iao Valley.
7th stop: Wailuku and Iao Valley
After the exhausting mountain road it’s time for some relaxation in the valley. The roads are less winding and there are no steep grades falling off the cliffs. Instead you slowly drive through the sleepy town of Wailuku, the county seat of Maui.
Unfortunately, Wailuku rolls up its sidewalks early, but if it’s still bright outside take the chance and continue to Iao Valley.
If you expect a long strenouos hike through the rainforest, relax, the trail is easy and shorter than you think seeing all the pictures in the travel guides. It even makes no sense to plan a whole day for a visit.
In Wailuku HWY 330 ends at Market Street, which later merges into Main Street (HWY 33). Make a right and follow Main Street and later HWY 320 up to the Iao Valley parking lot.
Although the valley today appears serene and idyllic it wasn’t during King Kamehamehas invasion on Maui. Down here happened a bloody massaker when King Kamehamehas army pushed their opponents into the valley where they didn’t have any escape and killed each of them bit by bit.
Today nothing reminds of the massaker and the beauty of the valley shadows the history. Visitors can walk along a short but nice trail guiding them through the lush valley, along a stream up to a lookout. This roundtrail takes about 30-45 minutes. More details are available at the Hawaiian State Park page: http://www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/maui/index.cfm?park_id=36
Maybe you even have time on your way back to explore Wailuku’s old town along Main and Vineyard Street. Walking the streets you are passing old art deco and planatation-style buildings that are housing different small shops. In case the shops are still open take the time and browse the souvenir shops or the antique shops that are selling old treasures from Hawaii, America, Europe and the Orient.
